Parts Needed for Valve Cover Install

• valves
• valve spring seats
• valve stem seal
• intake valve spring(s)
• exhaust valve spring(s)
• retainer
• valve keepers

Top valve spring is the GSR outer intake, the middle is the GSR inner intake and the bottom is the GSR exhaust. The retainer is the 2 columns to the left with the small diameter hole used to hold the valve keepers.

How to Install Engine Valve Springs and Retainers

1. Remove your spark plug cover(if you have one), spark plug wires and valve cover using the 10mm socket and ratchet.



2. Locate the under hood fuse box and remove the cover.

3. Find the 15amp fuse and remove it. This prevents fuel from being squirted into the engine when manually cranking it over to TDC for each cylinder.

4. Place all the bolts and valve cover grommets in a safe place. For me it’s in the spark plug cover.

5. Now start to remove each spark plug using the 5/8” spark plug socket extension and ratchet, like so. I started at cylinder 4


6. Use your 19mm socket and proceed to turn the crank to TDC for cylinder 1


7. Loosen but do not remove both cam gear bolts with your 14mm socket and breaker bar. Don’t use an impact on these bolts. To make it easy use the two 5mm punches through the cam plate holder and cam holder into the camshaft. Circled here in yellow.

8. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt by removing the plug circled in red to expose the tensioner bolt.

9. Remove the cam gear bolts along with the cam gears and key. Make sure to be careful when removing the cam gear & key to not drop or loose it.
10. Remove both cam holder plates by loosening the 10mm bolts on the outside are first. Then the 12mm bolt starting from the outside bolts and working your way in.
The numbers on the picture below are for tightening

11. Remove the cam holders, taking care to remember how and where you removed them from
12. B18A/B
13. B18C1/5
14. Remove your camshafts and place them on a cloth in a safe place, along with the cam gears, key and cam gear bolt.
15. Grab your leakdown tester hose and screw the threaded end into the spark plug hole for cylinder 1. Plug the other end into your compressor.


16. Very Important Step: Plug all the oil passages with paper towels. The oil passages are located here

17. Get your 12mm deep socket and extension then place it over the retainer

18. ive it a good hit with your mallet to loosen the valve keepers from the retainer. Try not to loose the valve keepers

19. Valve keeper removed (how it should look after hitting it with the 12mm socket and rubber mallet)

20. Remove the retainer from the top of the valve spring(s)

21. Remove the valve spring(s) to expose the valve seat and valve stem seal

22. Grab your pliers or valve stem seal removal tool and remove the old valve stem seal.
Left side has no valve stem seal, the right side does.

23. With all valves, valve springs, valve stem seals, retainers and keepers removed.
Here, the head is off the car. If you’re doing this with the head on the car, do it one at a time

24. Install the valve seat buy just placing it over the valve guide
If you are doing this while the head is in the car, skip this step

How it looks with the valve seat installed (left side)

25. Now lube the valve stem with oil or assembly lube and place it into the valve guide.
If you’re doing this with the head on the car, skip this step

26. Determine which valve stem seal you’re going to install. A black spring around the valve stem seal means it goes on the exhaust side. A white or silver spring on the valve stem seal means that it goes on the intake side.They are not to be interchanged.
The stem diameter on the intake side is bigger than the stem on the exhaust side and if you mix them up, your exhaust side will leak and your intake side will wear faster than normal.

27. Exhause side:
28. Intake side:
29. Grab your new valve stem seal and lube up the rubber part with oil or assembly lube and place it over your valve stem. We’re working on the intake side so I grab a white spring valve stem seal.

30. Placed over the valve stem and gently hand push it on, just to make sure it’s seated straight and not crooked.
This is not correctly on the valve guide, it needs to be pushed on more. Look to next step.

31. Take your 12mm deep socket with handle and place it over the valve stem seal. Then push it onto the valve guide. You’ll hear it click and feel the little click when it’s in place. There’s no need to hammer it on and is unnecessary



32. Properly installed Valve guide:
33. Get your valve spring and place the inner spring inside the outer spring (if applicable) paying attention to which end has the tighter coils, because that is considered the bottom and goes towards the valve seat.
34. Lube up the valve springs in oil or assembly lube


35. Place your valve spring(s) back into the head on the valve seat.
The bottom of the spring has the coils closer together than the top


36. Place the retainer back on top of the valve spring(s)

37. The process to get the valve keepers to hold the valve stem and stay put is different depending on which type of valve spring compressor you use. I’m using this type of valve spring compressor so this is the way to put the valve keepers back in.
38. The valve spring compressor we are using looks like this:
39. Carefully place your valve keeper into the retainer.
This process is made easier if the valve keeper is lube up with oil or assembly lube.

40. Place the valve spring compressor over the retainer and valve keeper combo

41. Now for the hardest part, trying your best to keep the valve spring compressor straight; begin to push down with all your might until your hands, shoulders, arms and whole body start to shake. That’s about the amount of pressure you need to put into compressing the spring enough to get the valve keepers to seat properly.

42. If this happens just remove the valve keeper and try again:
43. Repeat steps 17 – 42 for the rest of the valve springs and valve stem seals. After your done give everything a once over to make sure it all looks right. Then grab your 12mm deep socket and rubber mallet and place the 12mm socket over the retainer and give the retainer a very light hit just to make sure that the valve keepers are in place and secure. Once you’re done move onto step 33.
44. When finished:
45. Make sure there’s still oil in the camshaft journals, if not add some. Engine assemble lube is fine as well

46. Place your camshafts back into its respective spots, intake cam on the intake side and exhaust cam on the exhaust side. Placing the spot where the key goes at the top.
47. Place the key into its spot on the camshaft and slide on the cam gear. Hand tighten the cam gear bolt for now.
48. B18A/B
49. B18C1/5
50. Place a generous amount of oil or assembly lube all over the cams

51. Re-install the cam holders onto the camshafts
52. B18A/B
53. B18C1/5
54. Then the cam holder plates back into its respective side and tighten the bolts down starting from the middle 12mm bolts working your way out and then finally the 10mm bolts.

55. Now grab two 5mm punches or allen keys and stick them through the cam plate holder and cam holder into the cam
56. B18C1/5
57. Torque down the cam gear bolts to 41 ft lbs for vtec heads and 27 ft lbs for non-vtec heads
58. B18A/B
59. B18C1/5
60. Now double check to make sure that the crankshaft is still at TDC by aligning the crank pulley with the arrow on the lower timing belt cover

61. Once the crankshaft is aligned, double check to make sure that the cam gears are still aligned. Should look like this

62. Once it is, slide the timing belt back on making sure not to spin the crankshaft.
63. Rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise ever so slightly to take the slack out of the timing belt. You do this via the crank pulley.

64. Tighten the timing belt tensioner bolt with your 14mm socket and rotate the engine via the crankshaft counter-clockwise a full rotation until your back at TDC for cylinder 1 and double check that nothing has moved and is still at TDC. Both at the cam gears and at the crank pulley. If the crank pulley or cam gears are off, loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt and try again. Once your done put back the plug into the timing belt cover.

65. Install the spark plugs back into the cylinders and if they need replacing, now is a good time to do so.
66. Double check that your valve lash is still within spec. If not adjust it to the specs your cam manufacture recommends. Stock specs can be found in the Helms or with a simple search, then install the valve cover back on.
67. Install the spark plug wires, and spark plug wire cover (if applicable) and the 15amp fuse if you took it out as well as the fuse cover.
68. Now that everything back together, look over your work area ensuring that everything is in the car and that you didn’t miss anything.
69. Start her up and listen for any abnormal sounds. If anything sounds wrong shut the car off immediatly.
70. Congratulations, you’re finished!

No Hassle

Let’s face it, selling a car is often a long, difficult processes. When a car has reached the level of “Junk”, where it wont run or is no longer safe to drive, the process becomes even more difficult, sometimes impossible. By taking advantage of a scrap car disposal service like The Clunker Junker, you can get rid of your junk car without any hassle at all. No more dealing with car showings, online and offline classifieds, or wasting time with hedging buyers. When you use a car removal service, you wont have to lift a finger, and it wont cost your a dime to do it!

No Towing Costs

Almost all car removal services will remove your car completely free of charge. Some will even go so far as to pay you cash for them. If you were to try and call a local towing company, chances are they wouldn’t just come tow away a vehicle for free, no matter how much you begged and pleaded! A junk car removal service has connections and affiliations with towing companies all across the US and Canada, and will be able to have your car removed free of charge.

Hazardous parts and fluids are removed for you

Did you know that if you tried to take the car recycling process on yourself, you would be required to remove any and all hazardous parts and fluids? Everything from engine oil, to transmission and brake fluid, to the battery need to be removed before the car can be scrapped. This can be a huge burden for many people who don’t have the time or knowledge to complete this task. Car removal services will take the car as is and do all the dirty work for you. They’ll take care of all fluid and part removals without you ever having to lift a finger.

No Make, Model or Condition restrictions

Assuming you could get a local towing company to come and take your sjunk car away free of charge, many of them will only accept specific makes and models, and the car often needs to be in a certain condition (i.e. the car needs to be able to roll). This isn’t true with most car removal services. They will accept and pay for any make, any model, and any condition. Even if it wont move!

site: honda-acura.net

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Engine Modifications

Suspension and Brakes

• Skunk2 Adjustable Coil-overs
• Skunk2 Front-end Camber Kit
• Tokico Illumina Adjustable Shocks and Struts
• 94+ Integra GSR Front and Rear Suspension
• 94+ Integra GSR Disc Brake Swap
• 94+ Integra GSR Brake Booster and Master Cylinder
• 99-00 CIVIC Si Rims
• Nitto Drag Radials
• Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
• Energy Suspension Shift Linkage Bushings
• Neuspeed Front Strut Tower Bar
• Neuspeed Short Shifter Kit

Exterior Modifications

• Electron Blue Pearl Paint
• Carbon Fiber Hood
• Hood-pins
• Carbon Fiber Duckbill Spoiler
• Projector-style Headlamps
• 50/50 Tail-lamp Lenses
• 95 CIVIC Si Chin Spoiler
• DOHC VTEC Decals
• Tinted Windows
• Honda Splash Guards

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Parts Needed for Type R Valve Cover

• 2″ painter’s tape
• VHT wrinkle red high temp paint
• 320 grit sandpaper
• 600 grit sandpaper wet-dry
• small sanding block
• Exacto Knife
• Tweezers
• Isopropyl alcohol
• dishwashing detergent
• Piece of cardboard a little bigger than the diameters of the valve cover

How to Paint Your Valve Cover

1. Start by giving the valve cover a bath in dishwashing detergent and water to get the oil and such off
2. Let it dry fully
3. Scuff the entire valve cover that is to be painted with the 320 grit sand paper. Be sure to stay away from the parts that are going to be polished
If you have a dremel tool, you can use it to get rid of the molding lines (I left them)

4. Put painters tape over the areas that are not going to be painted
5. Use your exacto knife to make it just cover the areas needed


6. Mask the bottom of the valve cover as to keep out overspray. Start with the difficult side with the slope.

7. Make some long tabs that are all connected. Do as the pic shows. Make them long enough to bend back to make a wall with them.

8. Bend them back. If you did it right, you will have something that looks similar to this:

9. Tap off the rest of the bottom of the valve cover, leaving tabs on each side as you go across. Should look like the pic.

10. Put the valve cover on the cardboard where you want it and start taping the tabs down.
Make sure there’s no play in the tape from before so that it keeps the tape off of the areas to be painted




Move the valve cover to a well ventilated area and use a painters mask if possible while working with paint and chemicals.
11. Wipe the entire valve cover down with isopropyl alcohol. Don’t touch the cover with your hands after doing this step!
12. Follow the directions on the paint can and spray it in nice even strokes.
You should crosshatch the coats and only apply around four coats
Perform the next step at your own risk! We are not responsible for any mishaps with your oven.
13. place the valve cover in the oven and bake at 200 degrees F for 2 hours


14. After two hours, remove the valve cover from the oven and place it somewhere that it won’t be disturbed. Let it cure for 24 hours
15. After 24 hours, remove the painters tape from the masked areas, and detach the cover from the cardboard.
You may have to trim just a tad around the lettering. Make sure your exacto knife is really sharp.

[source] ]]> http://digmyhonda.com/type-r-valve-cover-diy/feed/ 0 http://digmyhonda.com/how-to-do-a-compression-test-diy/ http://digmyhonda.com/how-to-do-a-compression-test-diy/#comments Thu, 13 May 2010 02:31:58 +0000 DMH Eric http://ericmitz.com/0-digmyhonda.com/?p=206 Here is how you run a compression test. It’s actualy quite simple, but a lot of people skip certain steps and end up getting wacky numbers. Running a compression test should always be done before installing a turbo on motor.

Here is a video on how to do a compression test

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Parts and Tools Needed for Header Install

• Haynes Manual
• Quality Floor Jack
• Reliable Jack stands
• Penetrating Oil
• Wheel Chocks
• Good Ratchet and Wrench set with various sizes
• Cheater Bar
• Flashlight
• Gloves

How to install Megan 4-2-1 Header

1. Remove everything that doesn’t require getting under the car. This will consist of the heat shield and the bolts (red) connecting the header to the engine block.
2. Spray any rusted bolts with PB and let them soak for a few minutes
3. Unhook the O2 sensor harness (yellow) from the O2 sensor
This will allow you to remove the heat shield without removing the O2 sensor (which we will do later)
4. After unhooking the harness, remove the 2 bolts on the heat shield and slide it over the O2 senor/wiring.

5. Now that we’ve removed the heat shield, we can remove the 9 main header bolts.
This will probably require your cheater bar and both large and small socket wrench (some of the bolts are kind of hard to get to). There are still 4 bolts on the lower portion of the header, so don’t worry about it falling off.

6. Carefully Jack up the vehicle
7. Make sure the car is in park, you have the parking break on, and your wheel chocks are in place.
8. Use the floor jack to raise the front end of the car
9. Place Jack stands under the car
10. Remove the downpipe. This is the piece that connects the header to the rest of the exhaust system. The design of this piece will vary based on the model of your Civic. In my case, my cat (catalytic converter) is built into the header itself.
11. The downpipe is connected to the header with 3 bolts, a mounting bracket with 2 bolts, and the rest of the exhaust with 2 spring bolts. There is also a bolt securing the header to the engine itself. We will remove this later.
12. Remove the 3 bolts on the downpipe closest to the engine (Don’t forget about your PB).

13. Remove the two spring bolts
14. These things were particularly hard to get off and I had to hose them down with PB several times. The secret to getting these 2 bolts off is having 2 socket wrenches, and twisting in opposite directions (one on the bolt, and one on the nut). This will cause you to remove the bolt and the nut at the same time.
15. Once you’ve removed the 2 spring bolts, remove the two bolts on the mounting bracket near the middle of the downpipe.
16. Now that you’ve removed all 7 bolts, take out the downpipe.

17. Remove the last bolt securing the header to the engine
18. Unhook the second O2 sensor harness located towards the bottom of the header
19. Lift the header up out of the engine.
20. Installation is reverse of removal.

[source]

Site: cb7tuner.com

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Engine Modifications

• JDM H22A
• Auto trans
• K&N Drop-in filter

Interior Modifications

• BB6 steering wheel, w/o airbag
• BB1 front seats

Suspension and Wheels

Exterior Modifications

• ’93 front conversion
• ’93 JDM one piece headlights, blackhoused
• ’93 rear lights
• G-Square grille
• CB3 front bumper, with fogs, pole and intersection lights
• Jack_lee lip
• Toyota Harrier (RX 300) HID’s with Koito igniter and bulbs
• DIY HID reflector
• 5 lugs conversion
• SV4 rear sidemarkers
• BlizzShade rear visor

In Car Entertainment

• Pioneer HU, 8 disc changer (used)
• Audiostream 4 way 8 channel amp
• 4x Sony 140W speakers with crossover
• 4x Sony Tweeters

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Parts and Tools Needed for Motor Mount Install

• Jacker, Jackers stand
• Honda Steering Fluid
• Extension pipe (for socket)
• Socket wrench
• 10mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19 mm sockets
• Phillip screw driver
• Energy Suspension kits
• Silicon Lubication spray can
• Haynes manual

How to Install Urethane Motor Mounts

1. Jack up the car and remove the tires on both sides

2. Remove the rubber thing that is under the car. use 10mm and phillip screw driver to remove that rubber thing.

3. On passenger side, remove the red bolts and loosen the blue bolts. Use the beaker pole with 17mm socket.

4. Use 19mm socket with beaker bar to remove that bolt of the torque mount.

5. Remove those two bolts. use 14mm socket with extension pole and beaker bar.

6. Take out that torque mount.

7. Insert new polyurethane energy suspension on it, but spray w/ silicon lubrication first to avoid squeakin sound when drive, then wrap them up as shown in pic.

8. Now put it back and do everything reverse, however, you have to use that picker tool to pull down the wrapper thing, so u can fully tight that 19mm bolt.

9. On the driver side, the way you remove the bolts of torque mount is the same way you did on the passenger side, but removin that torque mount of the driver side is very different than how u would remove on the passenger side. So pay attention cuz u’ll need a honda power steering fluid for that reason.
10. Here is the pic of the torque mount of driver side:

After u remove the bolts, u can’t really slide out that torque mount cuz it was block by that lil wall as shown in the pic

11. So first, place the oil catch pan under where the power steering fluid resevior is.

12. Here are the two places that u’ll need to remove those bolts. U’ll eed to use 14mm socket, extension bar, and socket wrench to remove those three bolts

13. Now u’ll need to unplug the power steering hose. so use 10mm socket wrench to remove those two bolts. Be careful cuz as soon as u remove it, the power steering fluid will start to come out and possible spray at u. It doesn’t spray at me, but when i drop the motor down in order to remove that torque mount, it start to leak so that why you need the oil catch pan to gather those power steering fluid.

14. Now, lower the car to it angle. The motor should drop. But, if u can’t get the motor to drop, u’ll need to use a hammer to lightly pound those two bolts, so the motor will start to drop. dont pound too hard. I use the hammer because i dont want to waste my time and hopin that it’ll drop itself. I lower the car first cuz i dont want it to fall down that high cuz who knows.

15. As u can see in the pic, the motor drop, so u can easily slide that torque mount out of it.

16. Same way as you insert the new energy suspension on that torque mount. Remember, lubricate it with silicon to prevent from squeakin sound.

17. Now put it back to where it’s belong. Remember use the picker tool to pull the wrapper so the 19mm bolt can tighten up really well.

18. Now that u already have the motor drop, u can’t really push them up haha. So u have to use two jack stand on the front to hold the car. use the jacker to push up the motor as shown in the pic, then screw the bolts back on the top motor mount and the power steering hose. Fill more honda power steering fluid to it max.

19. Now that u have the motor back in place, screw back two 17 mm bolts of the torque mount.
20. You’re done. Now u have to put the rubber thing back on the car.

[source] ]]> http://digmyhonda.com/installing-energy-suspension-motor-mounts-diy/feed/ 0 http://digmyhonda.com/how-to-make-ctr-black-housing-headlights-diy/ http://digmyhonda.com/how-to-make-ctr-black-housing-headlights-diy/#comments Thu, 13 May 2010 01:15:20 +0000 DMH Eric http://ericmitz.com/0-digmyhonda.com/?p=190 Blackhoused headlights are one of the most dramatic, and best looking exterior DIYs you can do to your honda. This DIY is for CTR headlights, but can be used for just about any Honda headlights.

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Parts and Tools Needed

• Dupi-Color Gunmetal spray paint
• Alchohol and clean rag
• Heat gun/blowdryer (prefer the heat gun)
• Old kitchen knife that you can destroy
• Oven big enough to fit the headlight on a tray in

How to black house your headlights

1. Remove the headlights from the car by taking off the front bumper (center plastic clips, 2 lower 10mm bolts, 2 screws under the bumper, 2 screws at each fender)
2. Remove the headlights by taking off the 4 10mm bolts from each headlight. Don’t forget to disconnect the headlight connector and the corner bulb (once the headlight is free).
3. Remove the light bulbs from the housing
4. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees
5. When the oven is ready, place the headlight housing onto a baking sheet and put it in the oven for appx. 2 min (you may need to repeat this step until the silicon is plyable enough to work with)

6. Remove the housing from the oven (with the pan it’s on)
7. Place the housing on the counter or whatever surface you choose (we used a towel) and put the baking sheet in another spot as you will be using it again
8. Use the dull side of the knife to pry the outer plastic piece away from the housing. You will need to use the heat gun/blowdryer at this point to help you get it apart. Also, be aware of the little clips and be sure to unclip them without breaking or melting them

9. With the clear housing now off, remove the 2 phillips-head screws holding the reflective piece to the clear lense and pull the chrome housing from the clear lense, but be careful to not get the silicon on the chrome piece

10. Prepping the housing is easy, but requires patience: use the alchohol and rag and wipe all over the chrome piece. I rubbed enough to where the chrome was actually rubbing off. You will be painting over this part so that does not matter. BE SURE! to wipe into the crevaces very well or the paint will not stick

11. Let the alchohol dry completely and begin painting the housing by spraying very lightly. Do not spray a thick coat on yet, apply a VERY light coat and give it a couple of minutes to dry.

12. When the first coat has set for a few minutes, apply a second, thicker coat, but be careful not to overwhelm one area as the paint will run and ruin your project. After this coat is applied, you may want to go work on your other headlight to give this housing enough time to dry.
13. Continue applying coats until the results are satisfactory

14. Bonus Clear Corner DIY
15. I happen to have some spare Black Transparent Window Tinting model paint left from a model I did and the amber reflectors were just a little too bright for our liking. So, we sprayed the rough side of the amber reflector with a couple of quick coats of the paint. The result was AWESOME!!!

16. Reinstall the painted piece into the clear housing and screw it down
be careful not to get silicon on the painted piece as it will show through and make you very mad
17. use the heat gun/blowdryer on the main housing edges to heat the silicon back up — do this on the clear housing as well
18. with both edges sticky, reinstall the clear housing back onto the main housing.
19. use the heat gun/blowdryer to help you get the snaps back on
20. with the housing as far on as you can get, place the headlight back onto the baking sheet and into the oven for another couple of minutes
21. when you remove it, immediately place the headlight into clamps or have something to hold it together (we used an old towel, wrapped the headlight in the towel and duct taped around the towel as tighly as we could for about 10 minutes)

Site: cb7tuner.com

This is cb7tuner.com member CPmike’s frost white 1992 Honda Civic EX coupe. CPmike is amoung the most respected members of the fourth generation accord community, and has one of the most famous white CB7s of all time!

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Engine Modifications

Exterior Modifications

• JDM One-piece headlights
• Sylvania Silverstar H1 highbeam bulbs
• No-name xenon “blue” H4 lowbeam bulbs
• Clear bumper lenses
• JDM S2000 clear sidemarkers (amber blinkers)
• 94-95 Accord front lip
• OEM sunroof visor
• OEM spoiler
• Sedan trunk lid swap
• Red/clear tails
• cb7tuner.com and 9996 decals

Suspension and Brakes

• summer: Rota Slipstream wheels (16×7 +40) in “Steel Gray” color
  • BFGoodrich G-Force Sport 205/50/ZR16 tires
• winter: iii OEM 6-spoke coupe alloys (15×5.5)
  • Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S 195/60/15 tires
• Neuspeed Race Springs (2.2″)
• Tokico HP (blues) shocks
• Suspension Techniques rear sway bar
• Prelude VTEC calipers
• EBC Green pads, front and rear
• Brembo Blank front 11″ rotors, Wearever OE rear rotors
• Rotor-over-Hub conversion
• Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines
• Russell SpeedBleeders
• Prelude VTEC 1″ brake master cylinder
• converted to non-ABS brake lines
• ebay upper strut bars, front and rear
• SPC front balljoint camber kit
• SPC rear upper arm camber kit
• Energy Suspension front urethane bushing master kit (black)
• Prothane rear control arm urethane bushing kit (red)
• Urethane filled trailing arm bushings (80A)
• Urethane filled motor mounts (94A)
• Sandblasted/powdercoated knuckles & control arms

Interior Modifications

• Oil pressure gauge with tinted face
• Prelude shifter w/ Corsport aluminum bushings
• Carbon fiber e-brake handle
• Panasonic MP3-CD headunit