Posted by
DMH Eric on May 13, 2010 in
All Models,
DIY |
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I was messing around with the cars today and figured i’d do a write-up on wire tucking. I know there are a few already on here but i tried to go into more detail to give people a good idea of what’s involved. I’m only kinda half-done, i’m not gonna get into cutting and splicing until the new engine is in. But for now here’s some easy tucks you can do without cutting anything.
This DIY focuses on:
- Drivers side strut tower
- Injector Wires
- Right side strut tower
Tools Needed for Wire tuck
- 1/4″ ratchet
- 3″ extension
- 10mm socket
- Flat head screwdriver
- Start by removing the bracket next to the clutch master cylinder, which i also unbolted and pushed to the side. I’ve already unbolted it in the picture.
- This is the bracket after pulling the connectors off.
- To free up the big loom of wires, pop this clip out of the speedometer cable
bracket
- Then unbolt the clamp portion of this bracket and pull the wires out, then unbolt the bracket from the car.
- Now your wires should be freed up.
- Take the connectors and route them underneath the brake lines and master cylinder(s)
- Pull the connectors up and plug them back in. the right thing to do here would be to cut the wires, feed them through the grommet then splice the connectors back in inside the car. But i just stuffed them down out of sight for now.
- Bolt everything back up. No more wires, you just have to get rid of that pesky washer hose, but that can come later.
- Moving on to the injector wires
- Remove the nuts holding on the plastic cover, I’ve already removed them in this shot, but i’m pointing the screwdriver at one of the studs.
To take the plastic cover off the wires, stick a flat screwdriver in the slots and pry gently, they should just pop right open.
- The end result, exposed wiring harnesses.
- If you have these style injectors this is what you’ll need to do.
To open this clip, slip the screwdriver in between the connector and the clip and pop it out to the side, be careful not to let it fly off. Then do the same thing with the other side and it’ll pull right off.
- Should look like this. You can pull it off now.
- Reapeat with the others.
- Now re-route the connectors under the fuel rail and plug them back in
On to the other strut tower
- Move the negative wire from the battery to the hole where the fusebox bracket is and took the connectors off the strut tower. Very much the same thing as the other side.
- Route the positve cable from the fusebox behind the battery to the terminal, then run the positive from the starter underneath the the battery tray.
[source]
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